There are certain things I just want to see for myself. I spoke to Brett Viberg about a specific suede chukka that I wanted personally. It was an off-the-cuff conversation, one I didn’t even expect Brett to remember. Then a box arrived at my house and inside of it was a first sample and a note from Brett. This is an unlined version of what I was thinking about based on our conversation. He told me in a note. I couldn’t believe it and I loved the boots.

Over the next few months we worked on the style. We adjusted the shape, tweaked the styling of the midsole and gave the suede to have a lining which provided a bit more structure. Very quickly though I could tell that this was going in a good direction. In the end our collaboration Viberg x ACL Field Chukkas (launching today!) came out better than I could have ever imagined.

Part of collaborating on these boots with Viberg meant I wanted to see them being made. There’s no substitute for going to a factory and talking through the details in person. So I made the trip to Victoria British Columbia, Canada to see Brett while the production of the Field Chukka was taking place. It was an enlightening experience and by going there I confirmed Brett’s obsession with making some of the finest boots and shoes in the world.

Viberg has reached cult status among fans and appreciators of expertly made leather shoes. Founded in 1931 by Brett’s grandfather, Erwin Viberg, during the Great Depression, the business eventually moved from Saskatchewan to British Columbia to make logging boots. That company history is still evolving today and the factory storefront still sells and services these specific boots in a small way. The main focus of the brand now are the more refined styles like the Field Chukka, the company’s popular and beloved Service Boot and the other new styles in the collection which were all envisioned and executed by Brett. He’s a man who equally understands the footwear needs of a hardcore industrial logger, the desires of the Japanese market and the style of cool guys in Paris. I feel safe saying there is no one with the knowledge and perspective to rival Brett and that’s exactly what makes Viberg totally unique.

You might not be surprised to learn that Brett Viberg is the secret to everything happening with the brand. He brings such a unique passion, that until visiting the factory, I didn’t really understand. Viberg occupies a very unique space — one with a heritage of making proper work boots, but with an eye towards more refined shoemaking. That mix, plus Brett’s taste level and vision, is resulting in an incredible combination of refined yet overbuilt shoes and boots. In many ways it reminds me of things coming out of the most obsessed Japanese boot makers, but much more unique and natural.

Under Brett’s guidance, this era of Viberg is unburdened by past perceptions. He has the technical knowledge, obsession with materials and taste level to make boots that are unlike anything out there. Walking around the factory with him as he obsesses over the quality of the nails (he worked with a special Japanese company to craft very specific brass nails made specifically for Viberg) and the quality he demands from the components of his shoes is truly above and beyond.

Part of what makes Viberg so unique is the fact that he is uncompromising on the materials and built standards. It’s almost an obsession for him and he’s such a quiet and humble guy you only truly understand it when you are there in the weeds in the factory.

While most companies are looking to just get by, Brett is doing that Steve Jobs thing where every hidden piece inside is the best it can be. This theme became apparent to me as we walked around the workshop and he explained how he brings the mentality of making the most rugged boots and pairing it with the techniques and mindset of the most respected dress shoe makers in the world. That combination of ideas is what makes Viberg so exceptional.

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It’s cliché to complain about the prices of things with $30 cocktails and the overall prices going crazy for everything around us. Recently, the thought occurred to me that there are things I would buy no matter the price. $700 for Alden loafers? Sure. I’m just glad I can even still buy them. Crockett & Jones Pembroke brogues? I don’t honestly care what they cost I am wearing these shoes until the day I die.

While in Osaka with the brand Boncoura, the amazing founder explained to me the insane detail that goes into every garment they make. While examining how nice the sweats are I realized a hoodie is $450, which didn’t even make me flinch. The value prop was all there and I was happy to own something that was so painstakingly considered.

Reflecting recently on the possessions that bring real appreciation, it becomes obvious. Almost everything treasured was an expensive, craft-oriented purchase. That reality hasn't gone unnoticed, and over time, the way of thinking about what we buy evolves. There's also a growing appreciation for how much enjoyment comes from wearing the good things worth stepping up to spend real money on. With that in mind, here's a list of things that bring happiness through their use and utility.

Good Shoes

When it comes to leather shoes, this is the easiest decision of anything on this list. Crockett & Jones checks all of the boxes. Independent and family-owned. Multi-generational. Still made in Northampton, England’s shoemaking capital and focused on quality. This is the primary driver of truly good shoes: the equation between quality materials and build. Most footwear brands are trying to make shoes and boots to hit a price point and market fit.

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In case you missed it, we are having a book club with James Salter’s Light Years. If you have read the book in the past few months with us, then you will be happy to know that the wait is over. Yesterday we recorded our thoughts on the book, on life, marriage, popularity and insecurities. Today we welcome you into that discussion and hope to hear your thoughts on Nedra, Viri, Hadji, Franca, Kaya and Arnaud.

I told David that I don’t normally read fiction, but this book made me feel something— which perhaps is the point of reading. If you haven’t read the book, do that now and save this podcast for later. This was one of the most interesting and enjoyable conversations we have had on this podcast. I hope you all agree and thanks for waiting for us. -MW

-Order Light Years.

-James Salter in The Paris Review.

-The famous James Salter New Yorker profile.

-Thomas McGuane reads James Salter.

-James Salter on Peter Matthiessen.

-Order a copy of The Print Edition.

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There’s a big question I often find myself thinking about. Does the place I live define me? I would probably have a different answer at various points in my life, but it is something I think a lot of us probably consider. We make many decisions in life that help define our “personal brand.” This could get highly specific, but the big things are: What car we drive. What labels we wear, what media we read and listen to, and, finally, where we choose to call home.

I remember when Doug DeMuro (a writer/creator I really love) moved to San Diego, and as someone living in LA, I couldn’t wrap my head around it. (Later I heard that he moved because of his wife’s job and probably also because it’s a great place to live). When I lived in NY and LA, I probably wouldn’t let myself understand a move like that. For a long time, the only places that existed to me were the city and LA. Eventually I realized that if I have an airport and an internet connection, I could live almost anywhere. (I’m lucky that is the case.) After 15 years in NYC and a decade in Los Angeles, I realized I wasn’t willing to suffer the competition of living in New York anymore, and I liked the California lifestyle more than I liked LA as a city.

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One thing I notice about the internet is the fact that most people use it as a highlight reel to only show off the wins. This creates a false narrative of the perfect life, and unsurprisingly, we rarely hear about the failures. I appreciate that this newsletter is different from social media in that it allows me to provide context. It’s not just a portrait of a perfect trip; I can talk about the things I have learned on the way and all of the stuff that didn’t go as planned. So today I will share some of my recent dumb decisions.

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The best part of having ACL is the ability to work with brands I love to make things I want to wear. Today is another chapter in that journey, and I’m happy to report that the good things keep coming with my friends at Rivay. Our latest: The Highland Field Shirt.

I can legitimately wear anything Rivay designs (something I can’t say for many brands), but the shirting really stands out to me. I have an 8-year-old Rivay button-down that’s a trusted friend —threadbare and beloved. Somehow it’s always the thing I want to wear on an errand or a flight. One day, Jon, Katie, and I were talking about how much I wear the Correspondent’s Jacket and about the shirt I have brought with me everywhere. Then it hit us: a slightly heavier shirt (it’s a 6oz Italian herringbone cotton blend) with a good collar and two big pockets would be the perfect combination of those two things.

Over the past few years, we have collaborated on some staple wardrobe pieces — a rich green chore coat and, of course, The Drop Off Jacket — both of which have quickly sold out. Though there was one idea we have had since the beginning that has now become a reality: The Highland Field Shirt. A mid-weight woven in olive drab green made in a beautiful herringbone cotton. It’s the type of shirt you want to wear every day and pack for every trip.

Highland Field Shirt

This collaboration, instead of enlisting the talents of Jake Lacy or Michael Kelly, we decided to take a journey together. So we hired a Land Rover and found a good corner of the Scottish Highlands for an adventure. What better place to test our field shirt than those rugged hills? This shirt can go anywhere and works with almost everything. We love it and think you will too.

Hello from temperate Scotland, where it’s been warm during the day and cool at night. I’ve always liked a place where summer evenings call for an extra layer. After a few recent trips, I realized I should be more intentional about what I pack this time of year. A little bit of strategy goes a long way toward feeling well put together. I spend a lot of time thinking about autumn clothes, but it's usually my summer wardrobe that could use the most work. So I’ve gone deep on summer wardrobe options.

A few months ago I ran into Toby Bateman and the team from Mr Porter. I've been a friend to those guys at MRP and a customer for years. There are very few retailers whose point of view and designer list that I trust more. If I could only buy clothes from one place, this would probably be it. I spent some time building a wish list of pieces I'd actually like to wear over the next few months. We’re in the heart of summer, so here are 50+ good things to wear.

Morjas Deck Shoes

Altea Straight Leg Shorts

Garrett Leight California Optical Sunglasses

Lardini Shell Bomber Jacket

Ghiaia Cashmere Jeans

Drake’s Pleated Chino Shorts

Bleu de Chauffe

Fullcount T Shirt Two Pack

Drake’s Jungle Jacket

Morjas Suede Espadrilles

Porter-Yashida & Co Canvas Duffel

John Smedley Merino Wool Polo

Orslow Straight Leg Jeans

Husbands Double Breasted Blazer

Yuketen Boat Shoes

RRL Banks Beach Tote

Sunspel Half Zip Sweatshirt

Altea Linen Blazer

Cutler and Gross Sunglasses

De Bonne Facture Straight Leg Pants

Drake’s Denim Jacket

Ghiaia Cashmere Cotton Sweater

Norda 005

RRL Striped Linen Shirt

De Bonne Facture Leather Loafers

Sunspel Swim Shorts

Blue Blue Japan Indigo-Dyed Hoodie

Bleu De Chauffe Woven Leather Belt

3Sixteen Cotton Chambray Shirt

Folk Cotton Jacket

J Mueser Western Shirt

Slowear Cotton and Silk Blend Sweater

Fullcount Straight Leg Selvedge Jeans

INIS MEÁIN Cardigan

FALKE Ribbed Wool Socks

MR P Linen Shorts

Morjas Suede Leather Belt

RRL Baseball Cap

Corridor Shell Drawstring Shorts

A kind of Guise Straight Leg Trousers

Hartford Cotton Jacket

Margaret Howell Tapered Cotton Trousers

Sunspel Cotton Boxer Shorts

Valstar Cotton Field Jacket

Saman Amel Suede Loafers

Altea Knit Polo Shirt

A Kind of Guise Leather Belt

De Bonne Facture Camp Collar Shirt

RRL Beach Towel

I. A New Rivay Store in Born

If you’ve been to the village of Bedford, NY, you might have seen the tiny but meaningful Rivay Men's Shop. This summer, the brand upgraded to a larger space just a few doors down. The new shop is open and better showcases the collection in addition to allowing room for vintage items, accessories and cool found objects. There’s also a cashwrap which doubles perfectly as a bar, and if you know Rivay, then you know what that will mean.

As a brand, Rivay hits all the right notes. The line manages to make timeless, masculine clothing that fits well. It’s wearable and looks classic. I don’t think there’s another brand that gets a higher share of my wardrobe.

With this new space, founders Jon and Katie continue to show their good taste and ability to world-build despite being such a small company. As always, I’m impressed with their efforts. If you find yourself near Bedford, this shop is a worthy diversion.

II. The Haunting

You’ve likely seen the famous par-3 16th. There may be no green in golf that cries out “try your luck” more than the 16th at Sleepy Hollow. With views of the Hudson, the famed Short template, its moat green, and a thumbprint for good measure, it’s about as much fun as you can have on a golf course. Together with The Old Ghosts, I am organizing an open event at Sleepy Hollow Country Club on August 11th for The Haunting. So if you’ve always wanted to see this in real life, this is your chance.

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Hope you like it!

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The third incarnation of The Print Edition is here. Meet The Summer Issue, just in time for relaxation, grilling and nostalgic beer. The cover is a wonderful Fairfield Porter painting of Maine, which sets the right tone for where we want to be.

In the pages we’ve got Graydon Carter on banned words and Brian Gallagher embracing truck life. John Brodie heads to the Bahamas while Yasi Salek remembers Lollapalooza 1995. Josh Condon warns us about summer menswear gone wrong, Al James reveals what’s in his very full garage and Tony Traina files a field watch report. You’ll also learn about the art of house-guesting from Nathan King, our writer-at-large, and discover the Mister Softee order from Significant New Yorkers™.

There are drawings by the great John Segal and a conversation between, wait for it, Michael and Coggins.

Thanks to Crockett & Jones and all our advertisers for all their support.

We’re into The Summer Issue, we think you’ll be into it.

So order your copy here or find them out in the world at our beloved newsstands.

Enjoy the season!
DC & MW

Order Issue 3

There’s a stretch of the north Cornwall coast where people paddle out into the North Atlantic in the dead of winter. It’s not the image of England we might first imagine, but it’s the very real place and way of life that inspired the brand Finisterre.

The company takes its name from Finisterre, one of the sea areas in the Shipping Forecast — the beloved …

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Being a Dad isn’t something I spend much time thinking about, but I often find myself marveling at how much I enjoy it. Frequently, I catch a simple moment that stands out and try hard to embed it in my memory. An evening playing catch in the yard with my son, the light just right, my daughter goofing around upside down in the magnolia tree. Sometimes on a drive home from school, I hear little voices in the backseat, which occasionally turn into a song or a game they are playing together with me becoming a grateful spectator. Being able to hang out with your son and his grandpa, just watching the game and being together, or going to play golf together as a family with the good light of a Sunday afternoon. That’s the good stuff.

I cried the first time I held my daughter and I so clearly remember the feeling it gave me. Becoming a Dad in that moment felt like the most important dimension of my life. It might have been vivid in that first moment, but the low-grade joy of being a parent is a beautiful aspect of my life that I didn’t anticipate.

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Most years I compile a gift guide for Father’s Day. The way this seems to work is the link is either passed to a loved one or just used as a personal shopping exploration. No matter how it’s used, I’m happy to make suggestions since I love this stuff. This weekend, we shared 34+ gifts on The Material Review and at least 30 more for the golfers among us at The Old Ghosts.

There are also several archival gift guides from this newsletter 2025, 2024 and 2022. (Looks like I didn’t do one in 2023 or 2021.) That was probably because I wanted to avoid being repetitive with these recommendations.

My thesis now for Father’s Day gifting is to buy him something important and nice that he is probably avoiding buying himself. So with that in mind, I put together a group of super nice (and expensive) things I think any good dad would want. That doesn’t mean you have to spend a ton of money — there are also some simple gift ideas in the links above and the recommendations at the bottom of this page.

Ultimately, I don’t think Dad needs much. A card, a relaxing day, perhaps a cocktail and a good meal will put any sane person in a good mood. If you can get a gift as an acknowledgement, that’s great. Personally, a mai tai and a cookout on the beach with my wife and kids is the best thing I could dream up. Easy.

I hope this helps make Father’s Day a bit more enjoyable for everyone.

• A really nice bag. He probably has a Filson bag (though I’m sure he would appreciate another), but he also might have his eye on an all-leather Ghurka Express II / Cavalier III Leather Duffel, a Bleu de Chauffe suede weekender or a beautiful weekender from Bennett Winch.

• How about a truly excellent coffee maker? Why not upgrade the daily coffee to a quality machine from Moccamaster or even a Ratio machine?

• A club fitting at the Titleist Performance Institute. It’s $750 just for the visit, not including any new clubs, but this is a PGA TOUR-level club-fitting expertise. This is elite stuff, and anyone who has been there knows just how unique an experience this is. (There are two locations for TPI — Oceanside, CA, and Manchester Lane in Massachusetts.)

• A (very) good bottle. Has he always wanted to own a bottle of Pappy Van Winkle but never would? This is a grail item he would never forget. These are roughly the price of .75 one Cartier Love bracelet, but this is grail-level stuff.

• The best shoes that will last a lifestyle. Alden Loafers, something from Crockett & Jones in Shell Cordovan, a handsome pair of Viberg boots or perhaps a pair of loafers from John Lobb.

• Other (full throttle) ideas. A Leica. A beautiful leather briefcase. The Original Mackintosh raincoat. An Eames chair. A Globe Trotter trunk. A nice watch. A Japanese knife. An aluminum Rimowa. A bottle of DRC. A suit from J. Mueser. Or perhaps just something rare.

OTHER IDEAS:

• Original Madras Trading Co. Handloom Shirt. These beautiful shirts from OMTC are handmade, giving them incredible texture and depth. I wear these every week, and in my mind, there is no better building block for Dad to transform into his “favorite shirt”.

• Wolf x Analog Shift. These are my favorite boxes for storing my watches at home. The quality here is just amazing, and when you feel them (and even hear the sound they make when closed) you know they are extremely well made.

• Oyster Tempo Pro. There’s something in the mind of the modern dad that assigns significant value to beverage temperature control. I own this “performance” cooler and it is the best and last cooler I will ever own.

• Smythson Panama Notebook. A beloved everyday item that can be monogrammed. I love these notebooks so much, but I never want to spend the $100.

• Tom Beckbe Canvas Tailgater Bag — Fill this with good booze, a few Yeti tumblers and the accouterments for a dad-approved cocktail program on the go.

• Golf Headcovers. These recycled sail headcovers are made in the USA and are vintage cool. I love this brand, Forewind Golf.

• Rivay Linen Correspondent Jacket — This is the perfect travel or everyday summer jacket. Rivay does the military inspiration thing exceptionally well, and I live in their clothes.

• A 35mm Film Camera — I try to take a roll a month of family photos because film + kids create the best memories. This is an iconic point-and-shoot camera that has a cult following.

• The Old Ghosts — Give him a subscription to The Old Ghosts, the golf newsletter I publish with The Fliers Club.

• Bluegrass Fairway — The maker of my favorite made-in-USA scorecard holder and golf accessories. Everything from Bluegrass Fairway is excellent quality.

• A Pelican Storage Crate — There’s something guys love about cool storage and these new crates are an instant upgrade that any dad would appreciate.

• Pinebury Merino Wool Sweatpants — As someone who loves wool clothing, these things are incredible.

Take care and happy Father’s Day!

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One of the things I like about the newsletter format is that it allows me to share stories large and small. Not every post is meant to be a big thought piece or profile; sometimes, I just feel like it’s interesting to see the everyday things I would share when I started out way back when.

During the process of making a jacket with Tailor’s Keep I ended up going to San Francisco three times over the course of probably eight months or so. Each time I got a chance to explore the city and visit some interesting places —like the great shop Presidio Post (photos below) or Sam’s Burgers — not to mention the beloved Verjus. Through these fitting visits, I amassed a collection of photos from my enjoyable experience working with Tailor’s Keep to make a jacket I will own forever. My affection for San Francisco being what it is, I didn’t want these images to just sit in my archive, but instead I wanted to share them with everyone here.

Below are a mix of the Tailor’s Keep team, shop and surroundings. Plus some captures around town on my Sony A7CII and a few 35mm film scans just for fun. Hope you enjoy.

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