The Right Balance

New tailoring from Rivay, a chat with actor Michael Kelly and how the CIA really dresses.

Michael Kelly in Rivay’s new tailoring. Photo by Glen Allsop.

Good product design matters, but it can’t be the only thing. We’re evolved beings who want brands with values that match our outlook. One of my key operating principals since starting ACL has been to find and support brands that are run by great people. It’s important to me, and I take my recommendations here seriously. Rivay has become a favorite for the approach to making clothes and for the respect I have for the founders. It’s really one of those win-win situations, and I’m glad to see the brand get into new categories. Today, Rivay launched a capsule of tailored clothing with two new made-in-Italy suits. As expected, they are great. The jackets are unstructured, 3-roll to 2, made from lightweight Italian wool flannel. The quality fabrics and construction justify the $1498 retail price.

Rivay is run by Jon Ruti and Katie Boiano, a husband and wife team who really care about what they are doing. They design everything, concept the photoshoots, staff their shop, and ship the orders. It’s genuinely a mom-and-pop organization, and everything they do is for the love of creating clothes that make people happy. I often think about how an order means so little to so many huge brands, but truly means the world to them. It’s just a better way to shop on all fronts, and the kicker is that Rivay clothes are excellent. I appreciate the brand's aesthetic, which is part Americana with a slight continental twist (sometimes). It’s classic menswear without making me look like I’m wearing a costume — which is appreciated.

To highlight the new tailored collection, Rivay teamed up with actor Michael Kelly and photographer Glen Allsop to shoot a cool lookbook in America’s heartland. The vibe is sort of No Country for Old Men meets North By Northwest. It’s really fun and true to Rivay’s aesthetic, which feels right for the brand. I used this opportunity to talk to Michael about his style, the shoot and his love of Rivay.

Herringbone Suit

Italian Chalk Stripe Suit

When I was working with Rivay on our collaboration jacket this past spring (there’s something else fun from us coming in a few weeks), I had a chance to meet Michael Kelly in Bedford. He’s a really lovely guy and found his point of view on the world very refreshing. Since he is modeling the new Rivay tailored, I thought this could be a great opportunity to chat about style, Doug Stamper and how a Deputy Director of the CIA should dress. Our chat below. Hope you enjoy it.

ACL: Thanks for talking to me. I saw the images from the tailored campaign and they look fantastic. That shoot seemed really fun. How was it for you? Did you enjoy it?

Michael Kelly: I haven’t done a lot of that kind of thing before. It was my first time doing something like that. I’ve known those Rivay guys for a while, and that made it fun. We had a small crew — just four of us. As soon as I put the clothes on, I felt so much cooler than I am.

ACL: I don’t know, you’re pretty cool.

MK: I felt really cool. Glen said, “Go check it out,” and when I saw the first shot, I thought, “Oh my God, he’s so talented.” We all went at it 100%. It was a lot of fun.

ACL: That’s great. Jon said you all traveled together, and it was wild being with you at the airport, people coming up to you. He said you mentioned you’re at the perfect level of fame. What’s your take on that?

MK: First and foremost, gratitude. I’m grateful for everything I’ve done and for the chance to work in something I love. I feel fortunate to have achieved this level of success; I beat the odds.

I joke about being at the perfect level of fame, but it’s true. I can get a good reservation, which is nice, but I can also go out with my kids and not be bothered. Time with them is sacred since I’m away often. When I’m with them, I want that time to be just ours. For the most part, it is, and that’s a beautiful thing.

ACL: That makes sense. So, how did you meet the Rivay guys? Was it through just being in Bedford?

MK: Yeah, through town. I think it was an introduction through Johnny Cournoyer, a local artist I worked with on Jack Ryan. He and his wife, Jenn Streicher, introduced me. I went into the store and thought, “This is me.” I fell in love. Honestly, 90% of my wardrobe now is from Rivay.

ACL: That’s cool. Have you always been into clothes and dressing well?

MK: I have. The older I get, I let it slip sometimes. I’ll go out in sweats, and my wife calls me out. I try not to wear sweatpants out of the house. Someone once told me wearing sweatpants out means you’ve given up on life.

You’ll still see me at the supermarket in workout clothes after the gym, not caring. But yes, I’ve always been into clothes.

Funny enough, my buddy and I in high school were voted Best Dressed in the yearbook. They even did a little shoot with us. I’ve always cared about what I wear. In college, my first day of freshman year, I laid out my outfit: balloon pants, a black turtleneck, and a beret. My English professor’s only note on the choice of The Great Gatsby as a paper subject was, “Not surprising.” I guess I was transparent.

ACL: That’s hilarious. Many of your characters have worn suits from Lioness to House of Cards. Do you bring your personal style to those roles, or do you just wear what wardrobe gives you?

MK: It depends. On Lioness Season 1, they wanted me in striped ties, saying it was “his thing.” I felt the deputy director should be sharper, more buttoned-up. Later, I attended a screening at the CIA, and the real deputy director was dressed sharply — Hermes tie, tailored suit. I thought, “I knew it.”

I told the costume designer, “That’s what he should look like.” So, by Season 2 and 3, he’s dialed in with great suits, sharp ties, everything perfect.

ACL: Do you like wearing tailored clothing?

MK: I love it. It really helps me as an actor. Putting on the clothes helps you become the character. When we shot Taboo with Tom Hardy, I played an American spy in 1800s London — once you’re in the clothes, it transforms you.

Even for the Rivay shoot, Jon pitched a story about a guy dropped in the middle of nowhere with a package. That narrative made it easy. I’m not a model, but if you tell me who I am in the scene, I can tell that story.

ACL: There’s definitely a parallel between acting and shoots like that.

MK: For sure.

ACL: So you’re into suits. Can we expect to see you in them on a typical day?

MK: Yeah, I love them. Up until about six years ago, I always wore suits when flying first class — I’d think, “This is a privilege. Dress for it.” Now I just try to look decent. You won’t see me in sweats on a plane.

I tell my kids the same thing: “Even if you’re not in first class, it’s a privilege, respect yourself.” They roll their eyes and wear sweats, but that’s okay.

ACL: Some fights aren’t worth fighting, but I love that you still dress up to fly.

MK: Thanks, man.

ACL: It’s great to chat with you. I’m into the pictures, and I’m excited to share this.

MK: I really appreciate you helping us get it out there. Like I told Rivay, I believe 1000% in what they’re doing. They’re great people, and those are the people you want to help in life.

ACL: Totally. Jon and Katie are so kind, easygoing, and talented — great people doing great things. That’s who you want to support.

MK: We certainly need that these days, buddy.

ACL: No kidding. Thanks so much, man.