Worth Considering

8 Small Brands That Are Worth a Look.

There are so many big brands out there it’s admittedly hard not to get seduced by marketing and a well targeted ad at a vulnerable moment. It happens to the best of us. Those purchases leave me feeling empty — though supporting a small company makes me feel good. We all know how this works, but I think it’s easy to lose track of our behavior.

Buying from an indie brand is a virtuous cycle. I get to feel good about a purchase now and also every time I use the thing. Along the way I am reminded of the positive impact I had to that company, those people and maybe a small town. I know I talk about this stuff a lot, but I keep finding inspiration among the old and new brands out there making unique things. It feels good to not be a cog in the big machine, but to support something in a more meaningful way.

Along with the other brands I highlight here, I spoke to the owner of a wonderful canvas bag company Port Canvas which has been relaunched by a true American manufacturing pioneer David Mullen.

Port Canvas

David Mullen is the founder of Save Khaki and throughout his career he has been a true supporter of domestic manufacturing and classic design. His newest endeavor is the revival of the 56 year old Port Canvas from Maine.

The relaunched collection from Port Canvas is an expression in classic simplicity. In a world where non of us probably need another canvas tote, we all need one of these bags! I caught up with the often shy David to ask him how the reboot is going. Our chat below.

ACL: How does Port Canvas fit into the Save Khaki United world?

David Mullen: Port Canvas seamlessly integrates with Save Khaki United, as both brands are deeply rooted in local manufacturing and a commitment to honoring tradition. We share a passion for crafting goods using methods and materials that have a rich heritage and deep connection to their respective communities.

Port Canvas will continue to operate from its Maine studio in Arundel, serving both domestic and international customers. Leveraging the support of SKU, Port Canvas will enhance its marketing, customer service, and wholesale operations.

SKU is dedicated to amplifying the Port Canvas promise of quality, functionality, and durability, ensuring that these values remain at the forefront of the brand's ethos.

Port Canvas takes a lot of inspiration from its home state of Maine. What does Maine mean to you personally?

Maine truly is a stunning state, with Kennebunkport boasting a particularly picturesque harbor. Its beauty is rugged and long lasting, reflecting the resilient spirit of both the landscape and its people – qualities that we aim to capture in our bags.

Looking ahead, I'm excited to eventually split my time between Maine and California.

What is your opinion on the state of American Manufacturing?

Absolutely, the landscape of American manufacturing in apparel is indeed intricate, filled with both opportunities and hurdles. It's a world where the desire for domestic production and niche manufacturing is steadily growing, yet the industry is constantly grappling with the challenges posed by globalization, labor issues, and the pressing need for innovation to stay competitive on a global scale.

In this era where sustainability and transparency are becoming increasingly important to consumers, there's a palpable interest in products proudly labeled as "Made in America." However, the reality of local manufacturing is not without its difficulties. The lack of investment in new technologies to enhance efficiency, profitability, and drive product innovation remains a significant challenge. Furthermore, achieving the legal standard for "Made in America" status, which mandates that all materials and trims must be domestically manufactured, is a challenge that only a handful of brands can meet due to the decline of raw material manufacturing in the USA.

So, despite the challenges, we continue to champion local manufacturing because it's not just about what we make – it's about how we make it, and the stories we create along the way.

For Port Canvas, we are currently actively developing a Canvas made in the USA. For Save Khaki United, We have just relaunched our 100% Made in America collection called "Good Work", where every simple component of the garment is made locally here in the States. This limited edition is currently in our Lafayette and Silver Lake stores only. We will be releasing this collection online later this month.

The updated Port Canvas collection seems perfect for Japan. Have the Japanese discovered this yet?

We are working on expanding the brand in Japan. More to come.

It's worth noting that the simplicity, functionality, and durability of Port Canvas have always resonated well with the Japanese lifestyle. In fact, celebrated Japanese novelist Haruki Murakami even wrote a quiet essay about Port Canvas in his book 'Surf City of Dreams,' published back in 1998. You can read the English translation here.

In the first essay titled "My favorite tote bag that even fits my powerbook," Murakami offers high praise for our bag without explicitly mentioning Port Canvas.

Weekender Tote

Duffer

A Friend Made

My style is mostly rooted in the classics, but when it comes to denim I allow myself some additional latitude to get a little crazy. These jeans from A Friend Made are delightful to me. Obviously these might not be the jeans for everyone, but the way they are customized is compelling. With the customization each pair is totally unique, but they are based on the iconic platform of the Levis fits so they are more familiar then you might think. If you can find a more subdued version I think this is a great way to get into vintage.

I bought my pair at Ron Herman before the iconic LA multi-brand retailer closed it’s Melrose flagship forever. It was this great moment of kismet where they had a custom pair I loved and they were my size. I went to try them on and they are a perfect fit. This is a small batch operation and the uniqueness easily justifies the price.

Dado Customs

An elusive handmade clothing operation which was based in a quonset hut in Malibu until one of the bad winter storms flooded them out. This small operation is making workwear-inspired clothing for men and women one piece at a time to your specs. The best way to order something is to reach out via Instagram and make an appointment. Hopefully they will relocate and have a new shop space soon. This is the type of stuff you get when you live the buy less, buy better lifestyle.

Yakoda Supply

When I first discovered this company, part of me had to see if Topo Designs was behind this brand. Turns out, both Topo and Yakoda share a home state, an appreciation for Cordura and an appreciation for made in USA goods. I prefer indie brands over the big outdoor companies when possible. I like the point of view of Yakoda even though there’s a slight flat-brim attitude with the brand. I’m into the accessories and especially like the nylon reel cover, bags and pouches. It’s rare to find anyone in the fishing space doing anything cool and these guys seem on to something. I hope they keep making stuff in Colorado. It it’s not clear, I’m a fan.

Ola Canvas

I have a working theory that there aren’t surf brands anymore. There are only “coastal lifestyle brands” which doesn’t seem as cool as the idea of a surf brand, but also seems to fit into people’s lives better. This all may not be true, but it does feel like the aperture has expanded for what it means to embody the attitude of a surf brand in 2024. Ola Canvas is doing things its own unique way blending surf with workwear and vintage details. Everything is designed in SoCal and much of the clothing is made in California. The fabric and details in the line are really well done. I have to commend Ola on how well the pants fit — which is a rare occurrence. This brand is a cool expression of what a good indie surf adjacent brand can be. It’s good to see more companies like this commit to the concept of well-made clothing.

Pinebury

Lewiston, Maine based Pinebury was started last year by Kyle Rancourt, who you may know from his family’s shoe company Rancourt & Co. As an avid cyclist and outdoor athlete Kyle wanted to create a brand with simple styling, that could utilize natural fibers and also be made in the USA. Pinebury is the antidote to much of the active clothing world which is over-designed and filled with polyester.

Pinebury utilizes a performance wool called Nuyarn in all of its products. This fabric promotes natural temperature control, reduces odor and generally just functions great. I was a merino convert even before Pinebury, but I have a great appreciation for it since I’ve been wearing the performance tees so much in hot and cold scenarios. My advice is to size up one from your typical size and be careful with the dryer. I’m excited to see Pinebury take off and love the purity of what Kyle is building.

New England Shirt

The New England Shirt Company has been making shirts in Fall River, Massachusetts since 1933. Most of the company’s history was spent wholesaling shirts to speciality men’s shops across America. Fairly recently New England Shirt started selling directly to customers through it’s own e-commerce. When that happened I thought: this is the type of DTC business we need in our life.

I’ve been up to Fall River a few times and have seen this factory in person. It’s not a huge operation, but there’s a lot of pride in what they are making here and a long tradition of making classic American shirts. The owner is a lovely man named Bob Kidder who has such a deep fondness for the tradition which he helps to carry forward at New England Shirt Co. It’s a great story and certainly a company worth supporting. They also make nice shirts which always makes things easier.

PennBilt

There’s nothing better than when a company focuses on one single category. That specialization is a great sign. PennBilt is the creation of Bill Thomas (who previously founded Bill’s Khakis) and its safe to say that he knows a lot about making good pants. It’s funny that something as easy as cotton pants are always the one thing that everyone seems to ask about. Sometimes the most simple things are the most difficult to find. Thomas has been obsessing over chinos for decades. “It all started in the mid 1980’s when I found a pair of original WWII khakis at an Army/Navy store near my college in Ohio. The old pair I discovered that day was the best pair of khakis I had ever found; which got me thinking about why no company had taken a craft approach to khakis.”

There are three main fits available from PennBilt. First is the The American which is a bit of a more modern fit with a little bit of stretch material. The other made in USA fit is The Authentic which is more of a wider leg WWII reproduction made from 100% cotton. The last fit is The Plainsman which is menat to fill the gap between a performance pant and a traditional chino. It has 4% stretch and has a more tapered fit. The Plainsman is not made in the USA, but is less expensive at $175 a pair. Additionally, I love the PennBilt cotton shorts which are the simple classic shorts we all need.