Is product more important than brand in a largely undifferentiated market where quality is third or fourth in consideration criteria for the average (non-Coastal) consumer?
Yes, when the brand is J.Crew. It's never going to be Noah or Supreme. It can be perceived well, but it's never going to be really be that cool just considering it's history and sheer size. I'm not saying it can't be beloved by consumers, I just don't see it being super cool. Just my opinion of course.
I don't think so. I think he's better at Brooks Brothers than J.Crew. I don't think MB is known at all by younger consumers, but he is known amongst those 35-55 (which is someone like me) and I assume that's the target for BB.
Not to draw conclusions that don't exist yet or be overly morose, but I feel like we're watching the death throes of large middle-class brands like J.Crew, Brooks Brothers, Abercrombie & Fitch, and so on. Increasingly it seems like consumers are gravitating towards either fast-fashion (cheap) like Forever 21/Old Navy/H&M or investing in higher end pieces from "luxury brands".
Preppy style is still going to exist, see Rowing Blazers. But, much like the stratification of music, I think it's going to be increasingly niche brands. Imagining a hybrid streetwear/preppy J.Crew is beyond my abilities. However, Abercrombie & Fitch started off as a sporting good store, brand pivoting can work.
Funny, when I entered the job market back in the recession, J. Crew seemed like such as aspirational brand and even then I had lots of bits and pieces from them, even if I couldn't really afford the full look. But as time went on, it sort of felt like they just faded; the product didn't evolve, the manufacturing just got worse and worse, and I just stopped looking to them for either distinctive items or basics. For what its worth, I've been buying from the various RL brands new and vintage continuously for both purposes the entire time. I have trouble imagining the product that would bring me back into a J Crew, but out of nostalgia I do hope they succeed!
Very thoughtful piece, Michael, with great points throughout and all the distinctive perspective I expect from you. My favorite line, "Personally, my preferences typically center on crusty old brands that are bad marketers and exhibit obliviousness whenever possible."
It is hard not to agree with just about every point you make. e.g. where J.Crew can sit on the line between Uniqlo and RL, that streetwear is potentially limiting (but high hopes for him figuring it out), that old school prep doesn't need to live anymore (except as costume, or perhaps on the UES where the characters do indeed wear it as costume).
In a year or so it would be fun to read your compare+contrast piece on Brooks Bros. and J.Crew, each 1-2 years post bankruptcy, new leadership, new creative direction, to see how well they're each faring.
I am also struck with how refreshing the J.Crew editorial voice was 8-12 years ago. We all talked that way anyway, and suddenly J.Crew was speaking to us like a friend. Now that everyone has done it (Hodinkee comes to mind, and even they have gone on a bit too long with it), that kind of jazzy friend chatter feels like your father-in-law trying to sound cool. No pressure @Emilie Hawtin but as their new editorial lead I have a ton of confidence that she could thread that needle.
That point about "jazzy friend chatter feels like your father-in-law trying to sound cool." is what turns me off Sid Mashburn as well, even if their product is great.
I hear you, but with Sid it feels more authentically him. I worked with him years ago and have appreciated his approach from the very beginning. I know an individuality's personality can't always scale as a brand, but I still love him & them.
Yeah I imagine once you experience that in person, the vibe of the whole brand feels more authentic. I think I'm just in the wrong part of the country!
I have a hard time when a brand is centered on a person as well. We all know what one person can get done so why dig into the illusion that it's one person running the IG and designing everything etc. Nothing against these brands, I just have a hard time buying in with that sort of set up. That being said, Sid is a legend. Love that guy.
Great piece- I was interested in your thoughts on this. I don’t really get streetwear but I appreciate it, and I hope he can bring something new to J Crew without turning it into something too young or trendy for guys like me who wear a Ludlow suit or chinos and dress shirt every day. The best case scenario for me is that he revives the brand and helps them grow, giving them space to get back to the quality materials and cuts from the early 2010s.
Is product more important than brand in a largely undifferentiated market where quality is third or fourth in consideration criteria for the average (non-Coastal) consumer?
Yes, when the brand is J.Crew. It's never going to be Noah or Supreme. It can be perceived well, but it's never going to be really be that cool just considering it's history and sheer size. I'm not saying it can't be beloved by consumers, I just don't see it being super cool. Just my opinion of course.
thoughts on whether Bastiaan would’ve been better fit at J Crew than Brooks Bros?
I don't think so. I think he's better at Brooks Brothers than J.Crew. I don't think MB is known at all by younger consumers, but he is known amongst those 35-55 (which is someone like me) and I assume that's the target for BB.
Not to draw conclusions that don't exist yet or be overly morose, but I feel like we're watching the death throes of large middle-class brands like J.Crew, Brooks Brothers, Abercrombie & Fitch, and so on. Increasingly it seems like consumers are gravitating towards either fast-fashion (cheap) like Forever 21/Old Navy/H&M or investing in higher end pieces from "luxury brands".
Preppy style is still going to exist, see Rowing Blazers. But, much like the stratification of music, I think it's going to be increasingly niche brands. Imagining a hybrid streetwear/preppy J.Crew is beyond my abilities. However, Abercrombie & Fitch started off as a sporting good store, brand pivoting can work.
Funny, when I entered the job market back in the recession, J. Crew seemed like such as aspirational brand and even then I had lots of bits and pieces from them, even if I couldn't really afford the full look. But as time went on, it sort of felt like they just faded; the product didn't evolve, the manufacturing just got worse and worse, and I just stopped looking to them for either distinctive items or basics. For what its worth, I've been buying from the various RL brands new and vintage continuously for both purposes the entire time. I have trouble imagining the product that would bring me back into a J Crew, but out of nostalgia I do hope they succeed!
Very thoughtful piece, Michael, with great points throughout and all the distinctive perspective I expect from you. My favorite line, "Personally, my preferences typically center on crusty old brands that are bad marketers and exhibit obliviousness whenever possible."
It is hard not to agree with just about every point you make. e.g. where J.Crew can sit on the line between Uniqlo and RL, that streetwear is potentially limiting (but high hopes for him figuring it out), that old school prep doesn't need to live anymore (except as costume, or perhaps on the UES where the characters do indeed wear it as costume).
In a year or so it would be fun to read your compare+contrast piece on Brooks Bros. and J.Crew, each 1-2 years post bankruptcy, new leadership, new creative direction, to see how well they're each faring.
I am also struck with how refreshing the J.Crew editorial voice was 8-12 years ago. We all talked that way anyway, and suddenly J.Crew was speaking to us like a friend. Now that everyone has done it (Hodinkee comes to mind, and even they have gone on a bit too long with it), that kind of jazzy friend chatter feels like your father-in-law trying to sound cool. No pressure @Emilie Hawtin but as their new editorial lead I have a ton of confidence that she could thread that needle.
That point about "jazzy friend chatter feels like your father-in-law trying to sound cool." is what turns me off Sid Mashburn as well, even if their product is great.
I hear you, but with Sid it feels more authentically him. I worked with him years ago and have appreciated his approach from the very beginning. I know an individuality's personality can't always scale as a brand, but I still love him & them.
Yeah I imagine once you experience that in person, the vibe of the whole brand feels more authentic. I think I'm just in the wrong part of the country!
I have a hard time when a brand is centered on a person as well. We all know what one person can get done so why dig into the illusion that it's one person running the IG and designing everything etc. Nothing against these brands, I just have a hard time buying in with that sort of set up. That being said, Sid is a legend. Love that guy.
Great piece- I was interested in your thoughts on this. I don’t really get streetwear but I appreciate it, and I hope he can bring something new to J Crew without turning it into something too young or trendy for guys like me who wear a Ludlow suit or chinos and dress shirt every day. The best case scenario for me is that he revives the brand and helps them grow, giving them space to get back to the quality materials and cuts from the early 2010s.